Hair Wash Day pt. I

I decided to blog today about how to wash African hair (unaltered or relaxed) because I think it is extremely to know how to wash our hair and keep it in tip-top condition.

As a lot of us already know, this matter is one of great controversy and most times confusion. Over the years a lot of wash theories and methods have been bandied – wash once a week, wash every fortnight, co-wash (shampoo-less ‘washing’, done only with a conditioner), pre-poo (pre-shampoo), and dry washing (washing without water – don’t know how this was achieved, but I reckon it’ll be fun to watch!),  to name a few.

While I understand that everyone has different hair needs and that there will always be exceptions, what I intend to do today is give you an idea of what I do and how it works for me and for other people I help out.

Because of the wealth of information available, I’ll split this into 2 sections starting with how to wash natural hair.

Washing Miss Boo’s hair

My beautiful niece is 5 years old and has natural 4B type hair that's grown past her shoulders (check out your hair type here.) Thankfully, her parents intend to keep it that way – natural.

I got to spend a couple of days with them, and was asked by her mom to help with her hair. Here are the steps we took:

• The first thing we did was release the hair from the afro-puffs she had. I did not comb her hair at this stage because it was very dry.
• To start the wash, I made sure the water was tepid, and not too hot, as too hot water could further dry out the hair. I ran the water over her hair several times to remove the residue and dregs.
• Then I conditioned gently using Revlon Flex Conditioner. I applied this in sections allowing it to permeate the hair, while lightly massaging the scalp.
• After rinsing out the conditioner, I shampooed the hair with Crème of Nature Kiwi & Citrus Ultra Moisturizing Shampoo once. I worked it through the hair from the roots up, starting with a light scalp massage.
• I rinsed out the shampoo, gently squeezing out excess water. Then I applied Elvive Smooth Intense Anti- Frizz conditioner. I mixed this with a light/mild protein treatment  - I used Xheken Capilar, but any ol’ mild protein treatment will do. I divided her hair into four sections and worked the conditioner and protein treatment into her hair gently. When a section was fully saturated, I used a wide tooth comb starting from the roots and working my way up to the ends. After combing through each section, the hair was held with section clips.
• After the conditioning/protein treatment process, her hair was rinsed generously with tepid water.
• Subsequent to the final rinse, I applied several water based moisturisers generously to her hair, starting from the roots and working my way upwards.
• Then, I applied sweet almond oil to her hair, to seal in moisture.
• Her hair was then left to air dry a little bit.

She had her hair plaited after that and it was very easy to manage because it was fully moisturised. Half way through when it started to dry out, I applied JOHNSONS® BUDDIES™ Easy-comb Detangler, which kept it adequately moisturised and without tangles.

...part 1 of 2

Why Michelle's Hair Matters

Below is a link to great article on how Michelle Obama wears her hair and what it signifies.

Why Michelle's Hair Matters

Traction Alopecia

Traction Alopecia simply means hair loss resulting from traction (deliberate and prolonged pull). See Picture 1

Unlike other causes of hair loss – shifts in hormonal levels (menopausal or pregnant women), heredity, poor diet and hygiene habits, outstanding health issues, e.g. thyroid maladies, stress induced illnesses, traction alopecia is self-inflicted.

Traction Alopecia is a major cause of hair loss among women of African origin. It's due to the excessive stress and tension applied to hair while executing several cultural hair practices or procedures, such as hair braiding or threading.

These practices when carried out properly are fantastic hair growth tools, but when this is not the case, hair loss is inevitable, sometimes to catastrophic proportions.

How do I identify traction?

• Does your scalp hurt while you are getting your hair braided?
• Does the part or your scalp with braids already in feel sour and tender?
• Do you experience a mild throbbing while and/or after getting braids done?
• Do you experience a constant tingling feeling while and/or after getting braids done?
• Are you unable to smile or move facial muscles after getting braids?
• Are you unable to sleep after getting braids put in?
• Do your braids feel too heavy?
• Do your braids start exactly from your hairline?
• Do the braids at the hairline pull out hair follicles from their roots? (you know its pulled from the roots if the end of the  hair is white)

If you answered yes to any of the questions, then you may be a prospective candidate for the self-inflicted hair loss a.k.a ‘Mama Eko’ syndrome.

How can I avoid traction?

Very simple, do not apply excessive or disproportionate force/tension to hair while braiding. If you do not do your own braids, school your hairdresser or braid specialist on how to handle your hair and scalp. Even if she tells you ‘ah auntie, the hair will not be neat o’, let her know a ‘not so neat’ hair style is better than hair loss.

Other Dos:

• Do lovingly deep condition hair before and after each braid service (the common practice is applying a chemical relaxer to the hair after taking out braids – this is VERY VERY bad!)
• Do wash scalp and braids at least once a week (not washing braids because they go bad is a myth – I will do a special in the near future on braid care)
• Do tease out hair along the hairline if you are getting individual braids; apply gel to keep it down. (If the gel is too thick or tends to get flaky, mix it with a little water and oil or you can use aloe vera pulp instead)
• Do keep hair adequately moisturised
• Do wear a scarf when going to bed
• Do use an oil based moisturiser, a.k.a Pink Oil to base the scalp when getting your hair braided instead of the normal hair food or hair cream as we know them in Naija (most hair creams contain petrolatum and mineral oils which do hair no good whatsoever; they not only clog the pores, they also make hair greasy…no, greasy hair is not good)
• Do resist the urge to pull hair tightly in a ponytail. Pulling hair tightly in a ponytail a.k.a The Croydon Facelift also causes Traction Alopecia
• Do stay away from the use of alcohol or ‘spirit’ on the scalp. I know this is a common practice in Naija to use these to ‘clean’ the scalp while with braids, but this dries out the scalp; next stop dandruff.

Ok, so I think I already have Traction Alopecia, what do I do?

Well the first thing you have to do is take those braids out if you have you hair braided right now. Yes, I know you paid good money for them, but I would advise you to take them out for your own good.

Secondly, give your hair a break! Let your hairline recuperate. How? By wearing your own hair for a while, no braiding with extensions a.k.a attachment or attach and no weaves. If Traction Alopecia is not addressed quickly, it can lead to permanent hair loss. Wearing a wig in Naija is just not imaginable, believe me I know.

Thirdly, try to minimize hair pulling or excessive combing or brushing. Also try to minimise the use of heat on the hair.

A daily massage of the area with hemp oil is highly recommended, as this stimulates hair growth…no, not ‘igbo’, Indian hemp (Apocynum cannabinum) is completely different from Cannabis/marijuana (Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica). Hemp is rich in Omega 3, Omega 6 and Omega 9, amino acids (both essential and nonessential), vitamins and minerals.

I am not sure how readily available this is in Naija, but if you can't get hemp oil, you can use olive oil a.k.a anointing oil instead. Now I know we have an abundance of that!

Honey is another great hair stimulant and because it has antibacterial properties, it can also be used to combat dandruff. Simply apply to the area in question, scalp, not hair (I would advise using sparingly or in combination with your normal conditioner to avoid a sticky outcome - no pun intended) leave for about an hour and the rinse off. You can use this with a shower cap.

Cucumbers are also great. They are rich in silica, which is really good for hair. You can incorporate it into your diet...I know, I know...salad jokes...dem cook ya own? Another way to use it is to make into a paste and apply to the area in question.

Last words – Braids are beautiful and very creative, they aid hair growth and also serve at times as protective hair styles, but they are also the number one cause of Traction Alopecia in women of African origin. So where is the balance? Scalp conscious braids and a new attitude to hair care.

¡Hasta la Otra!

Black hair, still tangled in politics

The link below is to an article by The New York Times on black hair and perceptions in the US. I think it´s worth reading.


Black Hair, Still Tangled in Politics

Welcome!

Hello Blog World.

I decided to start a blog on hair care, especially for my Naija peps. One of the most difficult things about living outside Naija for me is having to do my own hair. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind doing it, it's just that sometimes you want to walk into a salon and get your hair done by someone else and also not have to pay gazillions for a relaxer or braid service.

I have always been interested in hair; I started braiding when I was about 8 or 9. I have my mom to thank for all my skills! She would let me 'practise' at night and she would take it out in the morning to go to work. Gradually I became so good, she took my braids to work!

So I never had any formal training, just picked up most of the stuff along the way, techniques like twisting, braiding with extensions, fixing a weave (although I am not a huge fan) and applying a chemical relaxer.

Although I am not a cosmetologist, I am very chemical aware and always educating myself on new processes and also how to minimise damage to the hair and scalp. I had an A though in Chemistry in high school (I know, I know...not the same thing), so chemical processes and how they affect us have always fascinated me. I find the same joy in cooking, because for me, cooking is also a chemical process, although I think most people don't view it that way. I love the interplay of the various ingredients and how the ultimate taste is a mix of all of them.

Anyway, back to hair.

I, like most naija women I know have tried everything - jheri curls, baby curls, relaxers (lye and no lye - I will do a special on this in the near future), texturisers, natural, dyes, weaves (4 times and like I said before, not a huge fan), micro-link extensions, braids, micro-braids, twists, dreads, shaved off completely (several times). So as you can see, I have just about done it all.

A couple of years ago I decided to go natural. At first it went swimmingly, but later, it became so hard to maintain and I am a pretty time focused person and I do not think spending 2 hours on haircare everyday is productive. So after about 2 years, I decided to change the texture. Because I didn't want a relaxer, I chose to texturise instead. I did this for about a year and I had a lot of breakage.

In the end I went back to relaxers. This time I decided to educate myself better on the processes and the best way to go. Another thing I will address in this blog is hair growth for naija women and the myth surrounding it.

Well, thanks for stopping by. Hope you'll check back regularly.

Hasta Pronto!