Traction Alopecia

Traction Alopecia simply means hair loss resulting from traction (deliberate and prolonged pull). See Picture 1

Unlike other causes of hair loss – shifts in hormonal levels (menopausal or pregnant women), heredity, poor diet and hygiene habits, outstanding health issues, e.g. thyroid maladies, stress induced illnesses, traction alopecia is self-inflicted.

Traction Alopecia is a major cause of hair loss among women of African origin. It's due to the excessive stress and tension applied to hair while executing several cultural hair practices or procedures, such as hair braiding or threading.

These practices when carried out properly are fantastic hair growth tools, but when this is not the case, hair loss is inevitable, sometimes to catastrophic proportions.

How do I identify traction?

• Does your scalp hurt while you are getting your hair braided?
• Does the part or your scalp with braids already in feel sour and tender?
• Do you experience a mild throbbing while and/or after getting braids done?
• Do you experience a constant tingling feeling while and/or after getting braids done?
• Are you unable to smile or move facial muscles after getting braids?
• Are you unable to sleep after getting braids put in?
• Do your braids feel too heavy?
• Do your braids start exactly from your hairline?
• Do the braids at the hairline pull out hair follicles from their roots? (you know its pulled from the roots if the end of the  hair is white)

If you answered yes to any of the questions, then you may be a prospective candidate for the self-inflicted hair loss a.k.a ‘Mama Eko’ syndrome.

How can I avoid traction?

Very simple, do not apply excessive or disproportionate force/tension to hair while braiding. If you do not do your own braids, school your hairdresser or braid specialist on how to handle your hair and scalp. Even if she tells you ‘ah auntie, the hair will not be neat o’, let her know a ‘not so neat’ hair style is better than hair loss.

Other Dos:

• Do lovingly deep condition hair before and after each braid service (the common practice is applying a chemical relaxer to the hair after taking out braids – this is VERY VERY bad!)
• Do wash scalp and braids at least once a week (not washing braids because they go bad is a myth – I will do a special in the near future on braid care)
• Do tease out hair along the hairline if you are getting individual braids; apply gel to keep it down. (If the gel is too thick or tends to get flaky, mix it with a little water and oil or you can use aloe vera pulp instead)
• Do keep hair adequately moisturised
• Do wear a scarf when going to bed
• Do use an oil based moisturiser, a.k.a Pink Oil to base the scalp when getting your hair braided instead of the normal hair food or hair cream as we know them in Naija (most hair creams contain petrolatum and mineral oils which do hair no good whatsoever; they not only clog the pores, they also make hair greasy…no, greasy hair is not good)
• Do resist the urge to pull hair tightly in a ponytail. Pulling hair tightly in a ponytail a.k.a The Croydon Facelift also causes Traction Alopecia
• Do stay away from the use of alcohol or ‘spirit’ on the scalp. I know this is a common practice in Naija to use these to ‘clean’ the scalp while with braids, but this dries out the scalp; next stop dandruff.

Ok, so I think I already have Traction Alopecia, what do I do?

Well the first thing you have to do is take those braids out if you have you hair braided right now. Yes, I know you paid good money for them, but I would advise you to take them out for your own good.

Secondly, give your hair a break! Let your hairline recuperate. How? By wearing your own hair for a while, no braiding with extensions a.k.a attachment or attach and no weaves. If Traction Alopecia is not addressed quickly, it can lead to permanent hair loss. Wearing a wig in Naija is just not imaginable, believe me I know.

Thirdly, try to minimize hair pulling or excessive combing or brushing. Also try to minimise the use of heat on the hair.

A daily massage of the area with hemp oil is highly recommended, as this stimulates hair growth…no, not ‘igbo’, Indian hemp (Apocynum cannabinum) is completely different from Cannabis/marijuana (Cannabis sativa or Cannabis indica). Hemp is rich in Omega 3, Omega 6 and Omega 9, amino acids (both essential and nonessential), vitamins and minerals.

I am not sure how readily available this is in Naija, but if you can't get hemp oil, you can use olive oil a.k.a anointing oil instead. Now I know we have an abundance of that!

Honey is another great hair stimulant and because it has antibacterial properties, it can also be used to combat dandruff. Simply apply to the area in question, scalp, not hair (I would advise using sparingly or in combination with your normal conditioner to avoid a sticky outcome - no pun intended) leave for about an hour and the rinse off. You can use this with a shower cap.

Cucumbers are also great. They are rich in silica, which is really good for hair. You can incorporate it into your diet...I know, I know...salad jokes...dem cook ya own? Another way to use it is to make into a paste and apply to the area in question.

Last words – Braids are beautiful and very creative, they aid hair growth and also serve at times as protective hair styles, but they are also the number one cause of Traction Alopecia in women of African origin. So where is the balance? Scalp conscious braids and a new attitude to hair care.

¡Hasta la Otra!